Test. Mitigate. Verify.
Radon is an invisible, odorless gas and the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US. The only way to know your radon level is to test. If your results are high, you should install a mitigation system that vents this gas outdoors, and then test again to verify the drop.
SERVING GREATER DETROIT MICHIGAN
RADON CONTROL
We Make Sick Houses Healthy
Established in 2007 and based in Waterford, our Radon Control team brings local experience and certified practices to every home.
Test. Mitigate. Verify.
Radon is an invisible, odorless gas and the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US. The only way to know your radon level is to test. If your results are high, you should install a mitigation system that vents this gas outdoors, and then test again to verify the drop.
SERVING GREATER DETROIT MICHIGAN
RADON CONTROL
We Make Sick Houses Healthy
Established in 2007 and based in Waterford, our Radon Control team brings local experience and certified practices to every home.
Michigan Radon Snapshot
- Elevated levels detected in all 83 counties
- ~1 in 4 Michigan homes test at or above the EPA action level (4.0 pCi/L)
- Any foundation type can test high (basement, slab, or crawlspace)
Why Radon Control Matters in Michigan
Radon originates from the natural decay of uranium found in soil and rock. It enters homes through slab cracks, the wall–floor (cove) joint, sump lids, utility penetrations, and crawlspace soil. Homes can trap radon inside, allowing levels to build up over time. Because Michigan soils and the winter stack effect can draw air from below grade, testing is the only way to determine your specific air infiltration rate.
What does “action level” mean?
When to test (or re-test):
- You've never tested (or it's been 2+ years)
- You're buying or selling a home
- After major renovations, foundation changes, or HVAC updates
How Radon Enters and How We Fix It
Radon comes up from the soil and gets into homes through small gaps. After it enters, air movement in the house can spread it to other rooms.
Common entry points
- Hairline slab cracks and control joints
- The wall-floor (cove) joint
- Sump basins/lids and perimeter drains
- Utility penetrations (pipes, conduits)
- Crawlspace soil (especially unsealed)
Our Fix: Soil Depressurization
The Gold Standard
- Sub-Slab Depressurization (SSD): Creates gentle suction beneath slabs and basements; vents above roofline.
- Sub-Membrane Depressurization (SMD): Used in crawlspaces, this method works with a sealed vapor liner to capture soil gases.
- Radon-compatible sealed sump lid: Helps maintain suction and integrates neatly with your drainage/sump system.
- System indicators: A visible manometer to confirm draw, plus an audible alarm where required/desired.
- Drain-tile tie-in (when appropriate): We can draw from interior drain tile via the sump path for consistent sub-slab suction.
- Post-mitigation test: Verifies the reduction.
Radon Testing: Simple, Clear, Actionable
Testing is the only way to know your radon level. Start with a test, finish with a plan. Your results drive clear, expert recommendations.
Pick Your Test
DIY Test (good first screen)
- A quick, affordable way to "get your number." This establishes a baseline before choosing your next steps.
- Remember: There's no such thing as a "false positive" radon test.
- If a result reads high, radon was elevated during that test period. If your DIY result looks elevated, confirm with a professional test (or a longer-term test).
Professional Test: $140
(best for decisions and documentation)
- 48-hour continuous monitor under "closed house" conditions (windows closed, normal in/out)
- Annually calibrated equipment
- Results from a federally accredited Michigan lab (IMS Labs)
- Summary + recommendations (ideal for real estate documentation and home service records)
Reading Your Result (pCi/L)
Under 2.0
Low reading. Save the report and re-test every ~2 years (and after major home remodels or changes).
2.0–3.9
Elevated compared to the background. Consider mitigation; at minimum, re-test (or run a longer-term test).
4.0 or Above (EPA “action level”)
Mitigation recommended. We’ll design a right-sized system and schedule a post-test to verify the drop.
Ready to get a real number? Schedule a Radon Test, and if the results are elevated, we’ll lower the levels and prove it with a post-test.
Radon Mitigation: What We Install
We make radon measurable and fixable using clean, quiet, foundation-specific systems that draw from under the slab or liner, vent above the roofline, and are verified by a post-test.
- SSD or SMD sized to your home
- Sealed, radon-compatible sump lid (if present) for consistent suction
- Quiet exterior fan and roofline vent for performance and a low-profile look
- Labeled system plus a visible manometer and, where applicable, an audible alarm
- Post-mitigation verification test and simple re-testing guidance
Customer Reviews
What Michigan Homeowners Are Saying
Real projects. Real outcomes. Here are just a few examples of what neighbors say about the Cut ‘N Dry family of home services (Basement, Crawlspace, Drainage, Foundation, Air Quality, Mold, and Radon Control).
Note: Some reviews mention our former names, Crawlspace Remediation and Radon Control Services. Both are now part of the Cut ‘N Dry Waterproofing family of services.
Frequently Asked Questions
Radon can feel complicated; these are the answers to the questions Michigan homeowners ask the most.
Is radon really dangerous?
Yes. Radon is the second leading cause of lung cancer in the US. Testing and mitigation significantly reduce the risk.
Are Michigan homes at higher risk?
Elevated radon levels have been found in all 83 Michigan counties. About 1 in 4 Michigan homes test at or above the federal action level. The only way to determine your level is to test.
Do I need a basement to have radon?
No. Slab-on-grade and crawlspace homes can also test high. Any foundation type can have elevated radon.
What is the "action level," and how do I read my result (pCi/L)?
Under 2.0 pCi/L: Low. Save the report; re-test periodically.
2.0–3.9 pCi/L: Elevated vs. background. Consider mitigation; at a minimum, re-test or run a longer-term test.
Over 4.0 pCi/L (EPA action level): Mitigation is recommended; install a system and verify the drop with a post-mitigation test.
How often should I test (or re-test)?
Plan to re-test every few years. You should also test again after big changes like renovations, HVAC or foundation work, finishing a basement, or after installing a mitigation system to make sure it’s working well.
Do levels change with the seasons?
Yes, levels can change. In winter, readings are often higher because homes stay closed up and air moves differently inside. This is normal and another good reason to test regularly.
How does mitigation work?
Most homes use sub-slab depressurization (SSD) for basements or slabs, or sub-membrane depressurization (SMD) for crawlspaces with a sealed vapor liner. If there’s a sump, we add a sealed lid that works with radon systems. We run PVC piping neatly, install a quiet fan outside, and vent above the roofline. After installation, we test again to make sure radon levels have dropped.
Will the system be noisy or noticeable?
We use a quiet fan outside and plan the piping for a tidy, low-profile appearance. Inside, you’ll see a small gauge that shows suction. We can also add an alarm if needed.
Can I DIY a mitigation system?
Since mitigation involves suction, sealing pathways, and following building codes, it’s best to have a qualified professional handle it. We’ll ensure your system is the right size and functions as expected.
Still unsure about radon or what your number means?
Ready to Know Your Number?
And Lower it If Needed?
Start with a simple test. If levels are high, we’ll install a quiet, effective system and verify the drop with a post-mitigation test.
